Fort Canning Green
Many visitors many not know that this grassy space was once a cemetery. If you attended the Lady Gaga concert that took place here last year, you may not know that you were dancing on people's former graves!
It was active as a burial ground from 1822 (consecrated in October 6, 1834) until its closure on March 31, 1865. More than 600 people were buried here during those four short decades. Thereafter, it sat undisturbed, and sometimes tended, for nearly a century. It must have been a grand sight, filled with large above-ground tombs not unlike those found in Penang's Protestant Cemetery.
But Singapore doesn't have a reputation for being kind to its cemeteries. One of the tiniest countries in the world, Singapore is perennially desperate for land, and over the last 60 years has gradually been reclaiming its cemeteries.
This cemetery was no exception. Decades ago (the 50s or the 70s: sources differ), it too fell victim to the bulldozer and backhoe. The bodies were exhumed and the tombstones removed. But thankfully, around 250 grave tablets were preserved, and were mounted in the walls surrounding the green. And a few gravestones were moved to the nearby Armenian Church.
Grave tablets mounted in walls
Another bit of misfortune is that the burial register was lost in the 19th century. But thankfully, in 1912, H.A. Stallwood, a government clerk, was tasked with recording all the burials and mapping the graves. Then in 1985, Alan Harfield conducted comprehensive research of Stallwood's records, obituaries, the remaining grave tablets and other sources. As such, much information about the people buried here is preserved.
Furthermore, there's a group of 12 graves standing in the northeastern corner. These are not originally from here, having been relocated from another razed graveyard, Bukit Timah Cemetery.
Group of 12 graves
There are a few original structures that have been preserved. The two famous Gothic Gates, designed by Charles Edward Faber, are landmarks of this place.
One of the Gothic Gates
Here's a sign I came across while there:
Other original structures are two cupolas. But according to Stallwood's records and Harfield's research, they were not associated with any graves.
Cupolas
Here's a map. Note: east is up in this map!
The park and the grave tablets make a great place for a modeling photo shoot!
I came across a couple surprise discoveries while there: I found the wives of two missionaries whose graves I had found elsewhere.
Mary Gutzlaff, the wife of Karl Gutzlaff, buried in Hong Kong.
Matilda Dean, the first wife of William Dean, buried in Rochester, NY. His second wife, Theodosia, is also buried in Hong Kong.
One more thing: just outside this cemetery there sits a lone grave. It's considered a sacred spot among many local Muslims. The site is Keramat Iskandar Shah, the supposed burial site of a 14th century sultan of Singapore, long before Singapore was Singapore. (There's apparently no body in the coffin: Iskandar Shah was actually believed to have been buried near Malacca, however.)
Keramat Iskandar Shah
Getting there
By foot:
It's easy to walk here from downtown Singapore. Find Coleman St. (near St. Andrew's Cathedral) and walk in an easterly direction. Soon the street's name changes to Canning Rise. Continue on; the street goes uphill and curves northward. Soon you will see Fort Canning Green on the left. You can't miss the Gothic Gates.
By MRT:
The closest MRT station is Dhoby Ghaut; the second closest is City Hall. You'll have to cross a few streets, but it's easy to get to in either case. Look at the maps in the MRT stations. If you get lost, just ask the way: Singaporeans are excellent with directions!
On Find A Grave
Fort Canning Green
On Google Street View
Fort Canning Green
