British Cemetery (Kathmandu)

Nepal offers few opportunities for cemetery research. However, within the city of Kathmandu lies a true gem of a cemetery. It's the British Cemetery.



This is a lovely little graveyard that offers the visitor a break from the chaos of the city. The cemetery is small--fewer than 100 marked interments--but it's well tended by caretakers who live on site. It's adorned with camellias, poinsettias, frangipani, ficus, agave, flame vine and more.



The cemetery, known to the locals as Kapur Dhara, was founded in 1816, the year that the Gurkha War ended and the British Embassy was established. The earliest marked interment is that of Robert Stuart in 1820. The cemetery is on the grounds of the British Embassy, though it's now no longer contiguous with the main complex of the British Embassy since much of the former embassy land was transferred to establish the Indian Embassy.



Not many people here are famous. Perhaps the most well-known interee is Boris Lissanevitch, the founder of the famed Yak & Yeti Hotel.



The oldest graves are the first ones you encounter after entering though the gate. There are only seven marked interments from the 19th century, and the monuments for them are all quite grand.



Many of the graves are those of adventure seekers who met with tragedy. One of the most poignant graves is that of the Wilkins family, who died in a plane crash in 1992. I paused an especially long time while visiting their grave.



One of the most interesting graves is that of Micheal (sic) John Cheney. It features both a Christian cross and a small Buddhist stupa.



Well worth a visit, and off the beaten tourist path.

On Find A Grave

British Cemetery

Getting there

From Thamel: Walk east along Tridevi Marg (the street where the Fire & Ice pizza restaurant is) to the intersection with Kanti Path, where the gateway to the Ministry of Education is. Then walk north. Cross the next major intersection and keep walking north (Lazimpat Road) and then up the side street past the Department of Geology and Mines and the British Embassy. When you reach the Indian Embassy, walk along the narrow walled street that angles westward. After about five minutes you will reach the gate of the cemetery. It will be locked: knock at the gate, and the caretaker should come and let you in. If that doesn't happen, go back to the British Embassy and inquire there about visiting. (To maximize your chance of entry into the cemetery, it may be wise to go on a weekday.)